Right off the bat, you have to understand that grease is not grease, and oil is not oil. Too often, people categorize and make assumptions, as if it can all be substituted without consequence. To some extent, everything works to some degree, but for those seeking a real performance difference, a $3.99 tube of grease is not the same as a $14.99 tube. The ingredients are different, and the effectiveness is as well. Maybe not everyone needs better, but you don’t want the worst choice either, do you?

Synthetics

There are many choices of ingredients as a base, and I am a believer in synthetics. Most importantly, the particle is critical. This is proven on the highest levels from an engineering perspective. Without a particle, as is the case with motor oils, it’s not the same. The particle prevents the wear, acting as a barrier. And you don’t want a hard particle, because that is abrasive. Synthetic additives in a gun lube are incorporated in greases, oils, semi-fluids and CLPs alike, and they are available in different degrees – the more, the better. That is an expensive ingredient, so apply that to evaluating price.

Cleaners

You also have the consideration of cleaners, from water-based solutions to strong solvents, either in aerosol or liquid form. And, within that, there are different degrees of strength and toxicity. There is no magic in that the weaker a solution is, the less effective it is. If government banned all of the strongest cleaning compounds, some hard fouling situations can become a real problem. Of course, you don’t want to have to resort to using abrasives to clean out hard buildup. It will work, but you could wear down bore rifling, to some degree. In the same way, steel brushes are a much higher risk than bronze or nylon brush options.

Types of lubes

So, back to lubricants. There are traditional lubes, sometimes misidentified solvents, that are petroleum or strong solvent based. Strong odors are a relatively good measure of this. And, many of those choices lead to more buildup. So, try to go with modern options. In general, you don’t want cleaners and solvents to leave residue, which only slows gun parts down and counteracts the lubricant and protection function. In general, this is an important truth you must understand. And, you also don’t want to leave excess lubricant on gun parts, which can also leave unnecessary residues. That is why I like synthetics, when used correctly. Minimal residue.

How-To and How Not To

When it comes to oils, excessive lubrication becomes messy quickly. In a grease, a visual presence means you are creating resistance for those fast-moving gun parts like a semi-auto pistol slide. You want to be minimally invasive. So, if all you need to do is polish in product until it is nearly gone, finely-precisioned parts should move freely with the least amount of resistance. Makes sense?

Notes on Chemistry

It is important to remember not to mix products from different brands because there are more unknowns in terms of the impact of interactions. You probably won’t create as dangerous a mix as say bleach and ammonia (don’t do it), but you can easily get strange effects like discolorations, excessive buildup and potentially toxic fumes. Weird science can lead to dangerous conditions in a poorly ventilated room. The products I use are what is called non-reactive chemistry, but adding a solvent to the mix can produce unknown results. It won’t be pretty, and it won’t produce the best results.

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