No matter what the brand, a cleaner degreaser product marketed for firearms use is primarily intended to remove carbon fouling from gunmetal. Spraying will also remove pre-existing solvent and lubricant residue. Of course, this is a general assumption.

Aerosol products are different from liquid solvents because much of what comes out of the can is propellant and other solvent that evaporates off, so most of the effectiveness comes from the immediate contact with those surfaces. Just like with liquid cleaning solutions, you do want to remove that residue out of the bore, for example. Swabbing it out with patches, typically, will pick up and dry out most of material, but there could still be remnant residue. This is especially true for firearms with what I call a lot of “history” on that gunmetal. Solvent residue notoriously soaks into the pores of the metal and creates a footing. Too many times, I have heard from firearm enthusiasts who complain about cleaning gun bores and there is still color showing up on their patches. Of course, that is the ultimate test to determine whether the bore is clean or not.

As I preach, the rule of thumb is, whatever materials makes contact with the metal, owns the performance. So, if burnt-on solvent residue is practically welded onto the surface, no lube is going to be able to be effectual enough. You need to get all of the solvent residue off. A dunk session with an ultrasonic machine would be great, along with the scrubbing, and then maybe you will get the job done. Good luck.

This condition can be avoided if you shy away from traditional solvents. Relying on them while not properly cleaning while shooting many rounds thru your gun, especially long guns, will just elevate your situation. You ultimately want the bore to be lubricated. This is why I don’t like the term “clean guns.” You want to clean, of course, but it is more about prepping for lubrication, which is what will minimize buildup in the first place. It’s really not complicated, but too many older shooters won’t give up traditional solvent products, so they are creating their own misery. Unfortunately, I hear too often from shooters like this who want to be so prideful as to blame a lubricant for their problems, when in fact, it is on them.

Solvents, where liquid or from an aerosol can, usually have high pH, which is inherently damaging to metal, and can in fact, open the door and accelerate rust. Did you know that? We use these products because they work, but as I stated above, you need to remove them after use. Then apply a good quality synthetic lubricant protectant. Shoot. Clean. Lubricate. Repeat.

And, when it comes to aerosols, be careful with the spray pattern spreading out beyond the metal surfaces, which is almost inevitable. Non-metal surfaces like plastic, rubber, wood stock and other finishes can easily be vulverable to damage from solvents. So, spray, but wipe off of outer surfaces quickly. Quickly! Or, stick to non-aerosol cleaners and contain better with careful wipes. I have heard too many times about faux camo finishes that fade away from being sprayed with cleaner. Big mistake.

Aerosols are fine, either as a cleaner degreaser or similarly as a gun lube spray, but you have to be cognizant and careful. That’s all.

Also – and this can be helpful – an aerosol spray “could” be effective as a chemistry neutralizer as a follow-up to using a copper solvent or a cold blue solution, for example. It’s about the science.

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