Use common sense as a foundation for deciding how you go about cleaning and ultimately lubricating your firearms while not overthinking it with fake news from internet narcissists and other clueless big mouths

When you think of gun care, it almost always begins with the barrel, but really you should be focused on the inside surface, which is correctly referred to as the bore.

At Tetra, we call the process of properly cleaning, followed by gunmetal lubrication as bore conditioning, where you establish a protective barrier between the bore surface and potential outside residue, while maintaining a low friction environment that can actually enhance ballistic performance a bit thru improved velocity and tighter groups – not by much, but it’s a plus – accuracy and other performance metrics do matter, especially if you are competitive shooter.

Depending on how many components you are prepared to disassemble and reassemble, you can think about taking care of the trigger assembly. In fact, Tetra Gun grease can take a little weight off the trigger pull.

Next, the safety (safeties), the slide operation and locking lugs, magazine retention points and the ejection ramp area. Of course, we are talking about semi-automatic handguns here. Depending on the variation in gun design, the connector is another important lube point, as well as the sometimes high-wear barrel hood and most critical upper receiver rails.

Revolver type pistols are simpler by nature, but keeping the hammer, cylinder and chamber friction points clean and smooth, as well as the outer surfaces, is important.

On a modern sporting rifle, the bolt assembly demands the most attention to cleaning as it accumulates a lot of carbon fouling. Commit to disassembling it, scrub out the fouling, lubricate, and put it back together. It’s worth it. The gas port is often overlooked but you should get in there and keep it clean. Just like handguns, you want to clean and lube the magazine contact points because of the common issue of not locking in, feeding and releasing properly. For this class of weapons, a little oil can help out a sticky collapsible stock too.

Conventional rimfire and centerfire rifles will also benefit from bore care, but the bolt assembly is an important part of these long guns to properly clean up and keep well lubed. CLP is fine, but grease is also good for these relatively slow-moving parts. That being said, only use oil or CLP in the bore to support high-speed action while minimizing any disruptive material in the bore. You want to let the rifling do its job. So, after lubricating, wipe out any excess oil. You should aim for a spit-polish finish.

Shotguns are all about the bore, followed by the main hinge. The other part that needs care is a choke tube. Use Tetra Gun grease on the threading. Some companies call it an anti-seize lubricant, but that’s just a marketing description.

Avoid super high pH solvents, especially home brew’s. Many household cleaners out there like that green stuff, or citrus cleaners are great examples, not to mention something like a vinegar or peroxide, but these are all bad choices for firearms, not to mention an automotive petroleum derivative. High pH equals danger for gunmetal as it aggressively opens the door to rust. Clean with true gun solvents like Tetra’s Action Blaster aerosol, or the liquid Copper Solvent, but you should neutralize the material after use by removing residue before lubrication for best results. This advice applies to any brand.

Whether you are talking about pistols, rifles or shotguns, there will be unmentioned gun parts that should be cleaned and lubricated, but you get the idea.

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